I am so beat. My eyes are still burning, my knee is swolen, my back is stinging, I have a multitude of lacerations on the bottoms of my feet... it was a good trip. Earthquakes, tsunamis, gnarly locals, really really cool locals, good food, and barrels... lots and lots of barrels. I made it out of at least 7 legitimate backside barrels, one of them being the best of my whole life. Today I surfed Machine, and I got a solid 6-second barrel frontside, and I made it out clean. Best barrel of my life, frontside or backside. It was ridiculous. I am so tired right now. I buckled my board, so I'm leaving it here with Morris. If Joe wants to pay for it to be fixed, he can ride it while he's here. I'm exhausted.
I think we're leaving today. Tonight we'll go to Gunung-Sitoli, and tomorrow morning we should be on a chopper to Medan. Thank you Jesus. I am physically, mentally, emotionally, and spiritually drained. I got nothin' left. I pray that we would leave tomorrow, and that it would be a safe trip. I'm ready to go.
You have really helped me to hone my barrel riding skills on this trip. I came out of two backside barrels today, and one incredible frontside barrel. You gave me the wave, and you helped me, but the barrel riding was almost all me. Thank you Jesus. I'm ready to sleep, and I'm ready to leave.
Amen
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