Holy crap. These were the best rights that I've ever seen. I've concluded that today was better than that day at Honolua.(In Maui) It's a tough call, but I caught a lot more good waves today, and I got the best backside barrel of my life. It was sick. Thank you Jesus.
Let's start from the beginning. Andy and I surfed Sabatu Jungle this morning. It was huge. Way overhead, and the heaviest backside drops that I've ever made. I got worked. I fell from the top of the lip on a solid 8' barrel. I didn't even come close to making the drop. Then I caught a couple of close-out sets. The drops were beyond vertical, and then I just went for a bit and tried to punch through the back. I got caught inside on one big set. I was so scared. I started praying immediately. Those waves were extremely powerful. God helped me to make it back out, and I felt like He was telling me to go in. I caught one more with a ridiculous drop, and I got caught inside again. I tried to duck-dive one big one, and I got thrown back on the reef. I've got a pretty good scrape on most of my back. I was bleeding a bit, so Andy and I called it. He got a sick barrel about half way through the session. He was stoked, and I was stoked for him.
So we got out, and we went back to the bungalow on the beach. We surfed for about 2 hours at Sabatu. At the bungalow, we relaxed, played chess, ate some coconut bread, and just hung out for about an hour and a half.
Tam came in from the main break at Lagundri, and he said it was really good out there. Andy and I decided that we should go for a surf for an hour or so. As it turns out, it was really good. I ended up surfing for 4 more hours. It kept getting bigger, and more consistent. There were about 8 guys out when we first went out, but after an hour there were only 3. It was sick. I got a lot of good waves. It stayed pretty clean the whole time.
Finally we got out, and Mark and I came up for lunch. When we went back down the surf looked great, and Tam was the only guy out. We rushed out to surf it. It was extremely good. I got a couple of good ones. Two or Three close-out barrels. Then it went flat for about 20 minutes at sunset.
We sat there talking, and waiting. When it was almost dark a wave came through, and I caught it. It was pretty good. When I kicked out I saw the biggest set of the day rifling over the reef. Double overhead spitting barrels. It was amazing. Tam and Mark got caught inside and gave up. I was on the shoulder from taking the last one, so I made it back out with Andy. He was struggling a bit, so I was trying to get him into a set wave, but it never happened. He paddled for a wave, and then he was on the inside.
The following is an account of the best backside barrel I've ever caught:
There was still barely enough light to see the waves, but it was getting dark fast. I saw this wave coming, and Andy was nowhere near, so I decided to go. I took off, and immediately started to drag my hand. I didn't grab my rail right away, but Andy said I was in the barrel already. I saw the section starting to set up, and I was thinking "barrel". I grabbed rail, and it threw over me. I still saw Andy on the inside, but I decided that it was his responsibility to dodge me... I was gonna make it. I drove right through and the curtain fell about 6 feet in front of me. I completely disapeared from Andy's sight. I passed him, and shot out clean onto the shoulder. It was siiick!!! He reckons I was in it for at least 3-4 seconds total. I was completely in it for at least 2. It was amazing.
Thank you Jesus. I believe you were pleased. Thank you Jesus. You know I was pleased.
Amen
All content copyright © 2005 Timothy Jones (a.k.a. nobody)